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Beautiful Skin 101
John Russell


Most women shy away from being called 'too sensitive.' But when
the subject is kin, they're all too willing to wear the scarlet
S. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, at least 40%
of women believe they have sensitive skin, although most
dermatologists report that only a fraction really do. Sensitivity
"defined as skin that's prone to irritation from products,
weather, or stress" is a real (albeit misunderstood) condition.
It's not the same as an allergy. It means you have a lower
tolerance for irritating ingredients, such as fragrances and
dyes. The evil twist here is that the more skin reacts, the more
sensitive it becomes. Imagine normal skin having a natural
barrier like Saran Wrap. People with sensitive skin have a
disrupted barrier all the time. But by identifying what disrupts
that barrier and protecting it with the right moisturizer, you
can develop a thicker skin.

Read Labels: Before applying creams, lotions, or makeup, read the
ingredients list. The fewer ingredients on the label, the better.
All products and formulas should be free of fragrance, dye, and
isopropyl alcohol (commonly known as rubbing alcohol). And beware
of botanical ingredients and oils. Test each new product on the
side of your neck for a few days before using it on your face.

Cleanse: Wash you face with a milky, non-foaming liquid cleanser
or a soap-free bar. Do not use a washcloth or any rough scrubber,
which can be too abrasive for sensitive skin. Rinse face well by
splashing with lukewarm water and pat with a soft towel, leaving
skin slightly damp. There is no need to use a toner, which
generally contains drying and irritating isopropyl alcohol.

Moisturize: Dab moisturizer onto damp skin in the morning and
night. Look for one that contains ceramides, fatty acids, or
cholesterol, all of which help form a protective barrier against
irritation. In the morning, when the moisturizer is absorbed,
apply a sunscreen (with an SPF 15 or higher). It should also
contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which are least likely to
cause reactions. Cheat Sheet

Choose the right products. 'Allergy-tested' means it doesn't have
ingredients that cause common reactions. 'Noncomedogenic' means
it won't clog pores.

Read labels. Not everyone with sensitive skin is troubled by the
same thing, but the most common irritants, in order, include
fragrance, isopropyl alcohol, dyes, PABA, lanolin, sorbic acid,
formaldehyde, and benzoic acid. Don't assume that natural
products are safe. Some botanicals (rosemary, sandalwood, arnica)
and essential oils (jojoba, tea tree, lavender) may irritate.

Test samples on the neck for several days. If they don't irritate
you, they'll probably be fine for your face. Don't try an arsenal
of new products at once. Similarly, if skin breaks out, stop
using everything, and reintroduce products one by one.

Be as gentle as possible. Use a creamy, liquid cleanser or a
soap-free bar and rinse with lukewarm water. Avoid Buf-Pufs and
washcloths. Pat with a towel and leave skin slightly damp.

Moisturize with a product for sensitive skin, or one that
contains fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. Every day, be
sure to apply a PABA-free sunscreen that contains titanium
dioxide or zinc oxide. Daily Basics

Wash with a milky, non-foaming liquid.

Use a soap-free formula with oatmeal that calms dry and itchy
skin.

For day, use a fragrance-free moisturizer containing a
non-irritating sunscreen. At night, smooth on a noncomedogenic
formula that helps fortify the skin's barrier while you sleep.

Dermatologists say that sensitive-skin sufferers are more likely
to avoid using sunscreens, associating them with past reactions
to PABA. Choose one that won't aggravate skin.
It's not just what you put on your face. Hair spray can cause
breakouts along the hairline. Use an allergy-tested and keep the
hair off the face whenever possible.


Extra Help

To soothe redness, dermatologists recommend using a
fragrance-free treatment. A dime-size dab of an over-the-counter
1% hydrocortisone cream also relieves itching.

For dryness on the body, increase resistance to the environment
with a product containing lipids, which is safe for sensitive
types.

To treat blemishes, start with an irritant-free face lotion that
minimizes blotches with vitamin A. Follow with a concealer that
won't aggravate acne, which does double duty by helping clear and
conceal blemishes.

Dermatologists like products that get their color from iron
oxides, which are less likely to cause reactions. They're also
talc-free, which means they won't rob skin of the moisture it
needs.


Tricks of the Trade

Don't' shower or bathe for more than 20 minutes, or you'll dry
out your skin. Use lukewarm water.

Don't start any aggressive treatments during the winter, when
skin is dryer and more sensitive because of low humidity and
indoor heating. A humidifier helps skin from becoming parched.
Grainy or chemical exfoliants can cause breakouts. Excessive
daily scrubbing rubs the sebaceous glands, which can clog pores.
Use a clay or mud mask to slough off dead cells instead.

Facials are trouble unless they're simple, steam-free, and employ
fragrance-free products.

Avoid chemical peels and laser treatments if you're sensitive to
exfoliants and skin-lightening creams.

If acne medications irritate your skin, ask your doctor about
taking oral antibiotics or birth-control pills, which can help
minimize blemishes.

Keep Retin-A treatments to only once a week. Dilute the strength
by mixing it with your moisturizer.

For skin that seems provoked by anything and everything, ask you
dermatologist about cleansers and moisturizers that are normally
prescribed for hypersensitive postsurgery and postpeel patients.


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